Here is an update for our talks at Shadwell and Burnham.
Here is an update for our talks at Shadwell and Burnham.
We are back home and trying too adjust to the normal life. Although I am not sure what is actually normal. To make transition easier we are trying to fit in as much paddling as possible. There is more about it on our SIXKNOTS blog.
But more importantly we are trying to organise few talks about our journey. We had our first talk at CK/MER symposium in France several weeks ago.
Next talks are planed for first weekend in October in Burnham on Crouch and second weekend in October we are going to symposium in Falmouth.
We are also trying to do talk in Shadwell in near future and once the date will be set we will post more details here.
In the meantime you can watch our short video to know what to expect on our talk.
We wanted to say THANK YOU, and an enormous one, to all people who helped with our fundraising effort.
So far everyone who donated helped to raise an amazing £3800.
Both Shadwell Basin Centre and Joshua-Journey are delighted with the number of people who showed interest in their work and needs and who supported them. Thank you, all.
WE ARE RAISING TILL THE END OF AUGUST.
Once we finish, we will put all donators in a hat and make a draw of three who will receive a small prize.
It was 15th of August yesterday. Normal day, unimportant day in our lives. No one we know has a birthday, we did not marry that day. It’s not a national holiday or special day in our country, the weather was normal without extremes. Yet, this day managed to gain its importance.
Yesterday was the day when we came home. With all of our stuff from the circumnavigation, six IKEA bags, precisely, full of sand as we later discovered.
To complete the information I have to add the places where we stayed:
Alastair’s (our friend) – Blackheath, London
Ania’s (my colleague & friend), main bedroom – Stepney, London
Lucka, Terezka, Filip (Michal’s sister & Family) – Liberec, Czech Republic
My family’s cottage – Frenštát pod Rdhoštěm, Czech Republic
Klara & Otto (our friends) – Opava, Czech Republic
Lucka, Terezka, Filip (Michal’s sister & Family) – Liberec, Czech Republic
Ania’s (my colleague & friend), Ella’s bedroom – Stepney, London
And then we moved home!
Today we’re off on holiday to France.
We don’t know the exact distance of how many kilometres of miles, nautical or statute, we done. This wasn’t important to us. The track and goal were clear, to make a full circle, but if it is 200km more or less, really who cares. We had GPS, but only used it for crossings and in fog, it was switched on every hour or two, depending on our need.
We know that the full circle has taken us 119 from Gravesend to Gravesend.
The whole journey lasted for 122 days, exactly four months as we planned, from 1.04. to 31.07. 2012.
But there are few other interesting numbers and facts which I would like to share with everybody.
We had 94 paddling days.
We had 28 non paddling days, of which 26 were due to weather, 1 a mental rest (after our Lundy landing) and 1 in Gravesend as we were back too early.
We pitched tent and camped for most of the nights of which 7 were spent in 2 payed campsites.
We slept 28 nights under the roof:
2 in bothys
6 in hostel (Rubha Reid, Thurso, Cullen)
3 in B&B (Wick and Robin Hood’s Bay)
3 in Gravesend Sailing Club
14 at nice people houses:
3 at Howard & Gill’s in Brighton
1 at Mark and Sherril’s close to Portsmouth
4 at Barbara & Ian at Burton Bradstock
1 at Tanya & Andy’s (MidlifeKayak) in
1 at Steve’s at Aberporth
1 at Stuart and Kate’s at Easdale
2 at Finley and Linda’s at Aberdeen
1 at Tim’s close to Harwich
This trip was very liberating and brought us back to nature. We develop a need for one clear luxury, a fresh towel, so only took a shower if offered together with fresh towel.
All together we had showers on 16 different places around Britain.
We had a little competition here. Not between us, no. But it was showers against whisky bottles.
Sadly I have to say that the whiskey lost 14:16 for showers.
It may be due to us leaving unprepared and not having one till Brighton. On the other hand we had some very special stuff prepared by Zdislaw Dubinsky and carefully packed by his daughter Ania in handy containers of a size of double shot. We had one to two a day all the way till Brighton. Also the last bottle of whisky is not counted since it was bought in Walton-on-Ness as the very small bottle they make.
Where food is concerned, the statistic is very simple. This trip wasn’t about cooking. So altogether we used only few ingredients.
For cooking it was salt, pasta, quick rice – Egg fried rice was very popular, kidney beans in chilli sauce, pesto, tomato sauce, coconut milk and green Thai paste, odd carrot or courgette and leek, chorizo.
For snacks we had wraps, cream cheese, various salamis and cheeses, ketchup, mustard and mayo and occasionally a cucumber or pepper.
30 packets of Czech soups, various flavours (all time favourite a Goulash soup).
We used 480 tea bags of Roibosh and 1,5 kilo of sugar.
Favourite power bars were: Mars, Chunky KitKat, Wagon Wheels, Can’t-remember-name- ones, and a selection of Czech favourite ones especially imported for this trip.
Other nutrition was taken from local resources. But we discovered that mostly we ate steaks or sea food and vegetable.
And mustn’t forget the cakes and coffees.
I think these are the most important facts and statistics arising from this journey.
(written by Natalie)
When we were leaving on this journey we did not know what to expect. The whole distance to do was scary. The thought of four months doing that was overwhelming.
The first week was as expected, hard. Then we slowly got into it, established the routine of the days. We started to be more comfortable being in the environment you are in when on long term kayaking journey. A real break through came once we finished Lyme Bay. By that time we experienced about everything we could: good, bad weather, good and bad nights out in the tent, tiredness, pain, sunny kayaking days, head wind, long portages, broken equipment, every day packing, not making progress and finally making progress.
Slowly our expectation got shaped. Slowly we realised what we really wanted to do and can do. The motivation to handle the whole thing was clearer.
Of course we wanted to finish where we started, but we also had smaller goals. I wanted to make it as far as past the Land’s End, it seemed far enough, and just hoped for the cafe at Cape Wrath. Michal just hoped that once we get into it, we would make progress without hoping to get “at least somewhere”.
But as I said, suddenly we really started to enjoy ourselves. We got to grips with the blog writing. Started to meet more and more people. And people became the essential part of our journey. Every comment, every text message, every email had its importance. We knew that people are watching us, showing interest, reading our blog. We wanted to have the blog interactive, but firstly we thought about it as being interactive for readers. It changed greatly to being interactive for us, too. Sometimes I would think about an article and picture one or the other name I knew from the comments, and thought of what would they say, would they like it, would they add something and so on.
With just the two of us all the time, and we are well used to that and no, we don’t have to talk to each other for hours, having others involved in the journey was great. It also gave us new topics for conversations, hope your ears didn’t burn too much.
I said the motivation became clearer. It changed as the trip progressed. When we set off we had a goal for every day, but soon we realised that not always we could keep up with it. It started to put strain on the feeling of well being. While I enjoyed that we were off the water and was satisfied with distance we made, Michal was fretting that we should have been somewhere else. Fortunately this lasted him only few days. Then we decided to just “enjoy it” with few goals along the way, without which we wouldn’t finish. So it was North Cornwall by the end of May (didn’t), Scotland on 1st of June (better than expected), Aberdeen by 1st of July (almost), home(we didn’t know).
This approach gave us time and flexibility. But then it was time to finish. Once we reached English Coast, we were on a last stretch. Then, waking up on Holly Island, that morning I decided it was time to go home. We checked the distance and divided it by days left to a date. And this was what guided our paddling for the next days. It all changed to be distance driven. Making it satisfied us, not reaching it didn’t. We had three days to spare if paddling according to target. We used two, and were nervous. The days were easy, get up, pack, paddle, don’t stop at places, paddle until possible (tide, wind, light, strength), check tomorrow’s distance and weather, sleep. What, where and when we ate wasn’t important as long as we were not hungry and had enough energy.
I am glad we experienced this approach, too. It was satisfying seeing the progress and nearing of the goal. But we wouldn’t be able to keep it up during the whole trip.
The trip lasted four months which is a very long time. It wasn’t possible to have only one focus, to paddle. It was important to have a life as well. Britain is not a deserted place in the middle of nowhere and it would be very hard to pretend it was and to ignore all the stuff civilisation brings. For us it wasn’t the need to have bed or shower, luxury entertainment or TV, it was to use the environment and enjoy what’s offered, coffee, local fresh catch in a restaurant, sightseeing and local history. But of course if someone did offer a bed or fresh towel and shower, we were always ready to be guests.
Yesterday we paddled up the Thames to finish the journey.
Firstly we tried to keep up with the bigger guys.
Then we approached the Barrier. Looks like they tried to shut it before we make it through, but we made it.
The cable they were pulling across the river on the day we were leaving and which delayed us by few hours is there as well.
New cranes at Canary Wharf, scary the big buildings are coming closer and closer to us.
They were also painting our bridge on that leaving weekend, not bad looking.
Here, Michal is happy passing our local beach.
We stopped in our local pub for last coffee of the trip since we were a bit early and the police came to check up on us and interview us. That famous we were.
There is a war ship at Greenwich which wasn’t there on our outbound journey.
And then, we were there. Or here? Well, we arrived, landed, boats were taken up the stairs, done.
People from all over Britain came to greet us: JP and Beryl from Islington, Andrew from Hampton/Scotland, Mark from Dorset, Ann from Essex/Herdforshire border and few others who live locally, including the children and young people from Shadwell.
The rest of the afternoon was spent sorting the kit, since later we won’t want to do it. Ann and JP kindly unpacked our boats and helped with washing all and drying. Then it was all about food and later more BBQ food.
Beryl and Sarah made cakes. Last cakes of the journey.
Alastair then took us to his home since ours is being rented out till the end of the month.
As the journey is slowly nearing to its end it is time to write about the equipment we have used and what do we think about it.
TIDERACE XPLORE (Writen by Michal)
When we were getting ready for this journey I was told that circumnavigation of Britain will put a boat through the same stress as ten years of normal usage. Obviously we started to look for the best possible kayaks.
I made a list of what to look for on an expedition boat.
We knew it was going to take us four months to paddle around the British coast and we would spend long hours in the boat, often without breaks. We were looking for a really comfy kayaks but at the same we wanted to have a full control over them. Basically this one was all about cockpit.
We were not looking for a big kayaks. Ideally we wanted small kayaks with huge amount of space in the hatches.
For obvious reasons we wanted strongest and toughest kayaks.
British waters offer all conditions one can imagine so we were looking for boats which can handle everything.
Once we knew what we wanted we started to look for such kayaks. There was one little trouble, I have used Tiderace Xplore for almost two years prior this and it became my benchmark to which I tend to compare all boats I have tried.
And I have to say that most of the kayaks we have tried, could not match Tiderace’s cockpit. Often it was because of the seat and backrest shape regardless of how much padding there was. The main reason why we did not look twice on most of the other kayaks, was low foredeck and nonfunctional tight rests. Simply, there was no reason why I would chose such boat and have cramps in my legs from sitting as a frog, and there was no reason to have a best performing kayak if cockpit wouldn’t allow to use it fully.
There is not much to say about volume, numbers are clear. There are some bigger and wider boats than Xplore but hardly any of them have the same space in hatches.
In terms of strength I had no doubts about Tiderace kayaks. I used and abused my previous one a lot while playing between rocks and not always successfully and I have never managed to damage more than just the gelcoat.
In terms of performance, there is not much one wants from an expedition kayak, it just needs to go straight in any condition. Something what most of the seakayaks should do anyway, and Xplore is not an exception.
Now, being so close to the finishing line, in terms of kayak usage we have finished the first decade. And here is what we learn about them.
In terms of volume we could fit everything in what we wanted including two folding camping chairs. We actually fitted more than what was needed on such journey and left some behind at half way in.
As for comfort, no cramps in legs or feet, we could paddle up to 15 hours without getting out of them. The cockpit still allowed us to have control of the boat in any situation and as fast as needed when different leg position was taken.
The boat even when heavy loaded still seemed to be quite fast. There were no problems with stability in any conditions experienced.
The directional stability was great most of the time. If there is a side or tail wind the boat has tendencies to weathercock without skeg, especially if the load in a boat is not spread very well. However with careful loading, skeg can handle most of the situation and some edging is needed only occasionally.
Now, where do this ten years of usage come from? Mainly the landings. Since Natalie needed to stop more offer than I, we had to land on various places, anywhere, including between rocks. Also for the boats being heavy and us not being able to carry especially on uneven ground we often have to drag them above the water line in order to unload them. The landing were also hard there and now with boats being dumped on the beach. Although we were sure the boats were sturdy we are surprised how well they managed. If you ask Natalie how’s her boat, she would say: “Still shiny”.
As expedition boats these boats are great and we would use them again any time. As a boat for everyday use? I used Xplore for almost two years before and know that this boat can be used on overnighters, rock hopping, playing in surf equally.
I can’t and don’t wont to compare how fast or how small turns it can make in comparison to others. What I know is that this boat paddles well full or empty, it feels great on the water and that’s what matters.
During our paddling before this trip Michal always used Werner and I used Lendal. But for this trip we knew we needed a second pair each. We had an opportunity to try RAAB paddles from Czech Republic. This company has a long history at making white water racing paddles, some of them are being used at the Olympic games at the moment.
They also started to make sea kayaking paddles. The ones we had was one of their first models.
Once they arrived we were impressed by the quality of the finish. Suddenly some of the paddles we used before started to look like homemade. These paddles are very light and very powerful. Originally we thought we would use them as splits, but as soon as we tried them, our original paddles became splits.
We felt very fortunate to have such great paddles despite the few disadvantages. The blades were bigger than on our original paddles. It didn’t matter but for when paddling for too long against the headwind. The company has a solution, new different version with smaller blades. We are looking forward to try these as an addition to these original ones.
Since these paddles were the first split version RAAB ever made, we experienced some problems with the joining mechanism. It stopped working half way through the trip and had to be fixed by ever so good looking orange tape. Fortunately the company has a solution already, a new joining mechanism which seems to be better. Once we are back, it will be changed on our old paddles.
Despite few minor hiccups we do think that these paddles are one of the best Euroblades made for sea kayaking so far.
PALM OCEANA (Writen by Natalie)
During this journey we used cags from Palm, Oceana. Due the problems we have experienced with our drysuits we have used them more than we originally thought.
We were surprised at how good they are. It started long ago at home when Michal took it our of its packed and put it on. Suddenly his old cag, so comfortable until that time, wasn’t any more. He wasn’t sure about the hood, though, but during our days paddling in rain and wind, he began to like very much.
I just liked the look of them and the double neck. I likes to have jackets high up to the chin and this one provided that and had nice soft fleece which didn’t hurt on the chin.
Later during the paddling I also discovered the advantage of longer shaped cuffs, they do cover top of hands and give them protection from sun and spray.
We are not going to describe all their features as some had no great significance for us, for example pockets. The jackets perfectly lived up to our expectations, being comfortable and to last for the whole time, despite the great amount of abuse they sustained.
We did not have any opportunity to rinse them in fresh water, apart from while raining, and often they were covered in layer of sea salt crust. They never had real time to dry perfectly between being use and were stored in the tent porch in an IKEA bag mostly.
We didn’t expect to stay completely dry when rolling or capsizing in turing jacket but we were surprised how dry we stayed even when going through surf breaking over us or wearing them all day in pouring rain. We are definitely going to use these again, won’t be looking for any other alternative.
During this trip we had an opportunity to try a selection of dry bags from Overboard. Now, our previous trips we tried few different ones, so we could compare.
When we started to pack I found the Overboard bags little bit tough to fold and squeeze into the boat. But soon during usage on the trip this problem disappeared. On the other hand the sturdiness of material made the very resistant to wear and tear. There is not much to say about dry bags in general, because most people have only one expectation, to keep stuff dry. Well these did it.
Yet Overboard puts lots of thoughts into their cases and bags. They have them in a great range in sizes, shapes – the flat one came handy, and colours – so important when having lots of smaller bags full of different kit. We also shortly used a laptop bag and felt confident, and definitely didn’t worry with the iPad one.
Overall we are happy that four months on the bags look good as new and we can use the same ones again and again on future trips.
A Czech company HANNAH Outdoor Equipment provided us with a selection of clothes for land and camping gear. I am not going to describe all of it, but what was very useful on trip like this were the soft shell trousers. They had several great features, they were comfy, sturdy, fast drying, wind proof and survived without being wash once.
Other must have thing for us was a Pertex jacked with PrimaLoft insulation. It was great against wind, light rain, but mainly it remains dry even in the salty environment.
Gravesend, there are many versions where the name derives from. For example from grafs-ham – a place “at the end of the grove”. Or it may derive from the Saxon Gerevesend, the end of the authority of Portreve. Some of the locals believe, that the name was born when the bodies of those who died from the plague in London were buried in the town in attempts to put an end to it. Hence the name Graves-end. Unlike princess Pocahontas, we didn’t end in a gave here. However it was a place where something ended for us, the circumnavigation of British coast.
From now on, we are truly on the way home, back to the big City of London, and precisely to Shadwell Basin.
Today’s visit to Gravesend was very different to the one four months ago. Then we were at the beginning of the journey not knowing what to expect. And apart form late dinner at local international cuisine place we didn’t see anything.
This time we discovered that Gravesend is quiet a nice place with rich history connected as a gateway to the City and sea by the river and roads.
Still being influenced by the routine of our journey it felt strange to walk around the place without the dry bags full of valuables and iPad in hand. We didn’t have to worry about kayaks being just left somewhere relying that they are too heavy to be carried away and clothes too wet to be touched. Having food in a pub was a pleasant affair without the need of quickly writing an update or choosing where to sit according to position or number of plugs. We didn’t have to rejoice at the availability of WiFi, something we baldy needed and couldn’t really get since leaving Scotland. They even had great coffee with soya milk here.
So although something may have finished for us here, something else is starting. As from now on, we can partially resume our lives and do something different for a change. I am saying partially resume our lives as our flat is still being lived in by somebody else, but hey, it’s still holiday time, so no real need for something stable just yet.
Today we reached the sailing club in Gravesend. This is the place where we spent our first night at the beginning of our circumnavigation.
When our boats were taken up on shore, we realised that we had done this before. It dawned on us, we have finished the circumnavigation of Britain.
However, we have yet to finish the journey. And that will be at Shadwell Basin on Tuesday.